Bogolanfini mud cloth
Medium:Mordant- and discharge-dyed handspun cotton tabby
Geography: Bambara, Mali
Date: early 20th century
Dimensions:148.4 x 94.6 cm
Object number: 964.49.3
DescriptionAlthough it may look like white on black, the bogolanfini cloth of Mali is made by applying dark pigment to a light ground. Women treat a length of fabric with a leaf tannin mordant, which turns the ground yellow. They outline the designs and fill in the surrounding areas using iron-rich river mud. Next, they carefully apply a caustic preparation to the negative areas to bleach them white. The dizzying designs were originally intended to confuse malevolent spirits and so protect the wearer.