Chasuble in the naturalistic style - ROM2009_10833_18


Chasuble in the naturalistic style

Maker: Style of Jean Revel (Lyonese silk designer, 1684-1751)
Medium:Silk brocaded tabby
Geography: France
Date: 1735-1740
Period: Louis XV
118 x 80 cm
Object number: 2002.19.8
Credit Line: Gift of Mr. and Mrs. W. Kent Newcomb. Certified by the Canadian Cultural Property Export Review Board under the terms of the Cultural Property Export and Import Act. Attestée par la Commission canadienne d'examen des exportations de biens culturels en vertu de la Loi sur l'exportation et l'importation de biens culturels.
Not on view

This Rococo silk represents the high point of naturalism achieved in the 1730s. A chinoiserie pavilion framing an ornamental ewer is set into a serpentine floral scroll in which the blossoms are meticulously shaded using colour hatching, a technique associated with Jean Revel (1684-1751), the greatest Lyonnais silk designer of his day. It produced a naturalistic three-dimensional effect more painterly than anything seen before in woven textiles.

The technique of colour hatching uses wefts of one shade alternating with wefts of another to create optically an intermediate tone. Shading is also done in chenille brocading wefts, which give an effect rather like velvet pile. The cannetillé ground with monochrome chequer pattern done in flushing warp floats adds complexity to the design.

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