Chasuble fragment - 2009.125.6.1_1


Chasuble fragment

Medium:Silk lampas brocaded in silk, gold and silver
Geography: France or Italy
Date: 1715-1720
49 x 53 cm
Object number: 2009.125.6.1
Credit Line: This acquisition was made possible by the generous support of the Louise Hawley Stone Charitable Trust.
Not on view

Silk lampas with a crimson satin ground richly covered with gold and silver brocading wefts (both filé and frisé) and small semi-naturalistic flowers in coloured silk. This is a so-called Bizarre Silk, with undulating garlands of fantastic fruit and flowers inspired by the exotic, bizarre elements seen in Indian chintz and Oriental silks. It belongs to a sub-group in the "luxuriant" style, lavishly covered in a variety of gold and silver threads. It includes areas of small-scale diaper ornament in the form of ribbons reminiscent of lace trimmings, so it is an early example of the Lace-Patterned Silks that came into fashion In the 1720s and early 1730s. The small semi-naturalistic flowers in coloured silk are harbingers of early naturalism in silks, which reached its peak in the mid-1730s.

This is a characteristic example of a Baroque silk. A sense of movement is created by its asymmetrical design, strong diagonals and curves. A sense of depth is created by three-quarter views, the crossing of one motif over another, and the use of different types of metal thread. There is a contrast between light (sumptuous gold and silver brocading) and dark (satin ground).

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