Part of woman's sack gown (robe à la française) - ROM2008_9822_3

ROM2008_9822_3

Part of woman's sack gown (robe à la française)

Medium:Painted silk tabby
Geography: Painted silk made in China for the European market, used in England
Date: 1760-1770
Period: Qianlong (r. 1735-1795), Qing Dynasty
Dimensions:
106 x 74.5 cm
Object number: 980.205.C
Credit Line: Gift of the Fashion Group Inc. of Toronto
Not on view
DescriptionThis textile part of an unstitched woman's sack gown (robe à la française) was woven and painted in China for the Western market. It was quite common practice to unstitch silk dresses in order to clean or store them. It is a rectangle of yellow silk skirt panel with two scant repeats of red roses in a bunch, with purple, blue and white apple blossom sprays. There are silver outlines on flowers. The top of the piece has blended pale blue warp threads. The motif outlines are either drawn in ink or printed with black outlines as a spacing guide; these outlines are completely covered in finished pieces. The areas to be painted are first covered with a layer of white lead or white calcium (chalk or oyster shell. Under painting in white enhanced the effect of colors, which included mineral (azurite, copper, cinnabar, iron oxide) and vegetal (madder, indigo, lamp black, gamboges) pigments. Pigments were suspended as discrete particles in an animal or vegetal glue medium thinned to an appropriate consistency with water and applied to the surface of the motif, completely covering the under painting.
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