Description

Aṣọ-òkè, a cloth made of handwoven strips, is produced by the Yoruba people of southwestern Nigeria.  Yoruba weaving techniques are gendered:  Yoruba women utilize a single-heddle loom to produce long strips approximately four inches wide while men use the raised horizontal ground loom to produce very narrow strips. These narrow strips are then cut and stitched together to create a complete piece, such as a rectangular wrapper or tailored garment. The fabric is worn by both men and women and is typically striped, though additional weft or warp float decoration can be included.

The term "aṣọ-òkè" loosely translates to " top cloth" or "cloth from the hill," derived from the name of the hilly area where it originates from (Iseyin). Yoruba prestige cloths include Sanyan, Etu, and Alaari. Sanyan is a handwoven fabric made from the silk of the Anaphe infracta moth, known for its elegant beige color and smooth texture, often worn during significant cultural ceremonies. Etu, characterized by its deep blue indigo-dyed checkerboard pattern, is traditionally worn by elders and chiefs and symbolizes prestige and cultural heritage. Alaari, a vibrant crimson or magenta fabric, is woven from silk or cotton threads and is commonly associated with festive occasions such as weddings.

This panel of the sanyan variant, features hand-spun white cotton woven in an extended tabby weave (threads doubled throughout). Using cotton alongside or instead of the traditional silk fibers allows for more accessible production and can provide a similar texture and appearance to the traditional Sanyan. It includes a central stripe of yellow flanked by blue guards and short loose warp fringes on both ends.